In order to use the system and have it concealed, you're going to want to create a space for the female bracket component inside the back of your shelf material. You can see the dimensions of the aluminum female bracket here but we ALWAYS recommend you have the bracket in hand before cutting your channel - this is especially true with the steel variant as it can vary significantly in size from project to project.
In 40% of cases, the woodworker routers out the back according to the instructions given online in our Suggested Installation Guide.
You may opt to skip the router only use a dado or table saw blade to cut the groove that is needed to insert the female bracket. Here, you will need about 3" more room on the left- and right-hand end sides since the dado is a rounded blade and will leave a curve sloping upwards on the ends of your shelf that reduces available room for the bracket due to the slope.
In the sample above, using an 18" bracket, a routered shelf needs to be at least 18" + 6" + (2x 3/4") = 25 1/2" long, whereas if you don't router out the edges, you are more limited to 19 1/2" in shelf length. Some do take the option of just chiseling the back out rather than using a router.
Some customers prefer to use this method, since they want to use different laminates on the shelf.
You build a caucus out of 1 1/2 inch wood (the same thickness as the female bracket), leave enough space to accommodate the female bracket, clad it with 3/16 plywood and laminate that, or choose the plywood you want to achieve the look they want.
You can even cover the plywood with leather or felt or whatever your heart desires.
Some customers have a so-called thermal laminate. This enables them to cut grooves into the back of the MDF, then fold it to a shelf, glue in a backer board and attach the female bracket to that.
Note that here, you need very expensive machines.
This is just an example. If you are interested in this process, please contact us.
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